Four Week Trip to Western Queensland - Part 1

Trip To Blackbraes National Park August-September 2026

29th August Day 1

We left Julatten about 9.30am (11,8261km on the Prado) and headed off towards Mareeba. We had planned to stop at Centenary Park for our coffee, but it was market day and the park was packed out so we kept going towards Atherton. Stopped at Rocky Creek Memorial Park (10.45am 118343km) to have our coffee. Birds were very scarce here as the adjacent area had recently been burnt, one lone melaleuca was flowering and attracting a few Brown Honeyeater, two Yellow Honeyeater and a male Rufous Whistler all recorded in a 20 minute survey.

Yellow Honeyeater

Then stopped in Atherton to buy a new lockable hitch pin due to our old one having seized and not working. Back on the road we stopped at Mt. Hypipamee National Park (12.15pm 118380km) for lunch. It was cool 14ºC and overcast with a few light showers, so we had a cup-of-soup to go with our sandwich. The cool temperature was probably why the birds were not very active. The usual scroungers headed our way looking for handouts, Australian Brush Turkey, Grey-headed Robin and Lewin’s Honeyeater along with Pale-yellow Robin plus a couple of Grey Fantail (keasti). We could hear a Fan-tail Cuckoo, White-throated Treecreeper and a Victoria’s Riflebird.

Grey Fantail (keasti)

Grey-headed Robin

We had our lunch and left at 12.50pm heading to Ravenshoe and then onto Mt. Garnett (2.12pm, 118455km), where we fuelled up at the top store $2.56lt. Stopped off at Bill Brotherton Park on the way out of town to brew up a cup of coffee. We then found the gas bottle was empty so had to switch it over - don’t remember it running out on our last trip. Had our coffee and back on the road (2.37pm) to Pinnarendi. The road was pretty quiet and we were in no hurry, arriving at Pinnarendi at 3.30pm (118509km). The camp ground was very busy and looked nearly full as was the reception area with people booking in. Eventually got to the front of the queue and caught up with Nadine who then managed to arrange a take away pizza for our dinner as the café was fully booked. Found a space in amongst the other caravans and camper trailers, then organised the quick overnight set up by leaving the main tent stowed and using the rear hard-lid and insect screen. Also left the quick awning stowed away as there was no forecast of any rain.

Had a rest before going for a walk to Garden Dam.

Nothing on the dam but had 14 species around it including a Common Bronzewing, Whistling Kite flying over, Noisy Miner, Little and Noisy Friarbird plus two Eastern Grey Kangaroo.

Noisy Miner

Eastern Grey Kangaroo

We continued along the track to Big Dam, which was also quiet, one Australasian Grebe on the water, one Australasian Darter with a Little Pied Cormorant perched on a dead tree, two Masked Lapwing along the muddy bank. A few birds were in the surrounding woodland including three Grey Fantail, a female Leaden Flycatcher, a female Rufous Whistler, in all 16 species.

Grey Fantail

Back at camp we had some winging young Galah plus several Noisy Miner being fed by adult birds. The temperature was starting to drop quite quickly with a cool wind blowing. A warm coffee and a few nibbles before we headed off to get our pizza. Back to the camp to eat our delicious pizza. Had an early night, 9.30 to bed.

30th August Day 2

We had a great nights sleep. Awoke to 11ºC, not too cold. Had a welcome coffee to wake us up before a breakfast bowl of porridge. Got organised and walked down to No1 dam to look for a reported leucistic Grey Fantail which had been seen here 10 days ago. We were hopeful but disappointed we did not see it, bit of a stretch to see it after 10 days. A Pacific Black-Duck flew off as we arrived and an Australasian Darter was fishing before it climbed out and walked along the edge. Took a few photos on the muddy edge before it climbed onto a fallen branch and spread its’ wings to dry.

Australasian Darter

Walked back to big dam and took some photos of a Little Pied Cormorant and an Australasian Darter perched together on a dead branch.

Australasian Darter and Little Pied Cormorant

A few birds were in the surrounding woodland including Little and Noisy Friarbird feeding in Grevillea pteridifolia.

Grevillea pteridifolia

Garden Dam was very quiet with one Straw-necked Ibis flying over being the only bird we did not see here yesterday, total five birds in 20 minutes. Back to the T-van to pack up and move off to the café for morning coffee and a biscuit, said goodbye to Nadine and left Pinnarendi (10.47 am, 118510km). Headed towards Hughenden along the Hann Highway, passing The Oasis Roadhouse and turning off at the Blackbraes National Park after 204km non-stop from Pinnarendi. The Hann Highway was very quiet with little traffic, doubt we saw more than 20 cars/caravans plus half a dozen trucks. With most of the road sealed now we could keep up a steady pace until we approached the Blackbraes National Park section of road which had some serious potholes due to flooding several months ago. Followed the entry road 4km to the homestead, which is now a collection of three houses and workshop. Gone was the old school we stayed in some 20 odd years ago. Had a late lunch here before heading along the 18.9km track to Emu Dam campsite, definitely 4WD only. Parked up and walked along the dam wall to another camping area, which we had been to before. Checked out the dam road and site which were all OK, so returned to the car and drove across.

Emu Dam Crossing

We set up camp before a restorative coffee and a rest whilst overlooking the dam. Mainly Australasian Grebe and Green Pygmy Goose with one Cotton Pygmy Goose, plus a few Black Swan, Plumed and Great Egret and Little Pied Cormorant.

Blackbraes National Park - Emu Swamp Camp

We enjoyed the peace and quiet with no other campers and only bird song to disturb it. Checked out the Prado batteries to see if they had charged up on our 226km journey from Pinnarendi but they were still showing 2% and 3% charged, the same as it was when we left. However the charge in the battery was showing 13.6 volts, which did not make much sense as the car was still starting OK, so must have had a full charge. Looks like the Battery Management System was not recording correctly. Relaxed until the evening meal and the sun going down to reveal the stars above.

Emu Dam Sunset

After the meal we sat watching the stars and lots of satellites going over. Some of which appeared to be satellites were behaving strangely and appeared to be turning around and going back the way they came – UFO’s! Very early night after a tiring day.

31st August Day 3

Had a good nights sleep and awoke to 9ºC. A warming coffee got us going before a stroll along the dam wall. Much the same birds as yesterday with a few additions including 53 Hardhead, three Australian Pelican, 34 Little Black Cormorant, one White-bellied Sea-Eagle, one Straw-necked Ibis and one Nankeen Kestrel flying over.

Nankeen Kestrel

There was also an increase in Cotton Pygmy-goose with 12 counted. Back for breakfast which we decided was going to be a cooked one as a treat. Egg, bacon, tomatoes and baked beans! After this we had to go for another walk along the dam and into the main campground which was also empty. Only new bird was Black-faced Cuckooshrike. There were 13 Straw-necked Ibis on the edge of the water in a more natural environment than suburban lawns!

Straw-necked Ibis

It had started to warm up by the time we got back to camp so we relaxed under our awning and watched the birds on the dam. After lunch we had a short snooze before checking out the birds on the dam again. By now it was getting hot 27ºC and the birds were hiding and quiet so switched to try and get a few photos of the numerous dragonflies flying around. Graphic Flutterer was around our camp, but most action was down by the water.

Graphic Flutterer

Other dragonflies and damselfly seen were Blue Skimmer, Wandering Percher and Common Bluetail.

Blue Skimmer

Wandering Percher

Common Bluetail

A Pied Butcherbird was bringing sticks to a tree, but dropping them when it arrived, either too big, too small or inexperienced at nest building. A quiet afternoon reading and catching up with the diary. Spent to evening star gazing, not so many satellites tonight.

1st September Day 4

An early start to the day to begin packing up the T-van whilst a Pied Butcherbird was giving us a farewell song.

Pied Butcherbird

We had decided to head for home and get our battery problem sorted before we headed into more remote areas. Managed to conduct a 20 minute survey of the dam before breakfast and finishing the packing. Drove out and across the dam wall, passing the other campsite and spotting two Nankeen Kestrel perched in a tree.

Nankeen Kestrel

An uneventful journey to The Oasis Roadhouse, where we stopped to have a stretch and our coffee. Continued on north and saw our first Wedge-tailed Eagle for the trip flying over the road before we reached Mount Garnet for a stop at Bill Brotherton Park for our afternoon coffee break.

Wedge-tailed Eagle

The resident Great Bowerbird bower in the park had moved since we saw it on a previous trip, mainly due to the council (?) removing several trees causing the birds to re-locate. Two birds were attending the bower, both moving objects and placing sticks in the structure, which is now more exposed under another tree.

Great Bowerbird

Back on the road we continue on passing through Ravenshoe, Mount Hypipamee NP (rare that we past by here and not stop!), Atherton, Mareeba and then home arriving just after 4.00pm. Big day completing 469km. Hopefully we will continue our journey after we resolve the battery problem.

Abattoir Swamp Birding Hotspot

A HISTORY OF ABATTOIR SWAMP, JULATTEN, FAR NORTH QUEENSLAND

 

Entrance Car Park Area

Abattoir Swamp is situated between Julatten and Mt Molloy on the northern edge of the Atherton Tableland and takes its name from a nearby slaughterhouse, which operated from 1952 until the 1960’s. The area around the swamp was relatively undisturbed by human settlement up until the turn of the 20th century. A land survey carried out in 1910 stated that there were still large stands of uncleared timber including "Bloodwood, sheoak, tea-tree gum, mahogany, box and Ironbark". Charles Pashen build a house (date unknown) on the small hill at the western side of the swamp but this has since been destroyed. From 1949 to the late 1960's the land passed through several hands. Charles Pashen sold the land to James Dalziel who never used the land for grazing or crops but did extensively clear Eucalypts and Melaleucas from the edges of the swamp. Philip "Sonny" McDowall bought the land in 1952, built a slaughter house (hence the name Abattoir for the swamp) and grazed cattle on the land. Philip did not own the land for long as he sold it within 12 months to Kevin Gadd who was a butcher in Mt. Molloy. He grazed cattle on the land and used the abattoir to supply his butchers shop. The abattoir closed in the early 1960's. James Lenehan then bought the land, to graze cattle, in the early 1960's. During his ownership the Slaughter yard and attached buildings were destroyed by fire. James owned the land until 1989 when he sold the swamp and land east to Bushy Creek to the Mossman Central Mill. The mill cleared the remaining trees on the grazing land along with mature gums on the slope to the north of the swamp to grow sugar cane. There was also a plan to fill in and level the swamp.

Abattoir Swamp

Under public pressure, and with the advent of a World Heritage tree-planting scheme, the Mill decided to donate the land to Mareeba Shire for management as a conservation reserve in 1991. By now the swamp was becoming a popular place for locals and visiting birdwatchers to visit so the council decided that any future development of the site would involve enhancing the birdwatching experience. A survey of the wetland’s natural features, flora, and fauna was undertaken and a set of Management Guidelines were developed (Newton and Barnes 1993). The Council’s Tree-Planting Scheme funded the establishment of a boardwalk, bird-watching hide, parking lot, and access track.

Boardwalk to Birdhide

Council’s management of the wetland continued for several years until the conclusion of the World Heritage Tree-planting Scheme. At this point funding for the management committee ran out and the Park was transferred to normal maintenance and works program. Unfortunately, the environmental requirements of the wetland were no longer prioritised. Grasses were burned off, native saplings were cleared, and Olive Hymenachne became established. Thus, three distinct lines of the aggressive weed gained traction. Within a decade the wetland’s open waters were closed in by overwhelming growth of Hymenachne, the boardwalk was deteriorating rapidly, bird diversity plummeted, and the park began to acquire the reputation of a lost cause.

A move was made in 2015 to resolve the reserves problems, and a community event was held at the swamp. From that time the rotten parts of the boardwalk were replaced by volunteer members of the Julatten and Mt Molloy Association of Ratepayers and Residents, but more structural damage was found during these works. Funding was obtained to rebuild the boardwalk and the work was undertaken by a Job Find team. A new management plan was produced in 2018 along with funding to re-profile some of the swamp to create more suitable habitat for waterbirds. However, the aggressive Hymenachne has overgrown these works.

Forward to July 2021 when the Mitchell River Watershed Management Group (MRWMG) took over the management of the Reserve from Mareeba Shire Council, initially for a five year period. The Abattoir Swamp Management Group was then formed, as a sub-group of the MRWMG and is reliant on volunteers to continue the maintenance of this valuable wetland. 

Working Bee Group

Why is Abattoir Swamp important? It is in a region that is recognised internationally as a biodiversity hotspot, renowned for high flora and fauna endemism. The swamp’s location makes it a valuable refuge in the wildlife corridors running between the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area with the drier savanna country of the Rifle Creek drainage. Currently the open woodland area around the car park and adjoining paperbarks provide the most diversity of birds for visiting birdwatchers. Northern Fantail and Lovely Fairy-wren are probably the most obvious, with both species also nesting in the car park area. 

Northern Fantail

Lovely Fairy-wren (Female)

Lovely Fairy-wren (Male)

Historically, when open water was available, many waterbirds such as Green Pygmy-goose, many other duck species, heron and egret species were regularly seen. Crakes such as Ballion’s, Spotless and White-browed, plus Buff-banded Rail were easier to observe then, along the edges of the water. White-browed Crake are occasionally seen around the hide. 

Green Pygmy-goose (male & female)

What does the future hold? The management committee will prioritise what is achievable in line with the 2018 Management Plan. There have been several working bees and a new walking track has been made along the northern boundary which ends up in a stand of paperbarks opposite the bird hide. Obviously the biggest problem is the Hymenachne, which is almost impossible to eradicate, but it is hoped that some kind of control can be implemented to at least create some open water once again. Repairs to the hide and replanting to enhance the tree and other plant species to attract birds, are on going priorities. The 2018 Management Plan gives a lot more detail and can be downloaded from a link on the Friends of Abattoir Swamp Facebook page, where you can also download a bird species list. To keep up to date with progress and wildlife observations join the Facebook page or if you would like to go on the mailing list please send an email to:- as-convenor@mitchell-river.com.au. 

A Winter Birding Break in Far North Queensland

 

Keith and Lindsay Fisher, July 2024.

A week away from Julatten on a birding trip was just what we needed after a year of health issues confining us to home. A look at the weather forecast showed the persistent showers we had been having on the Atherton Tablelands were due to be replaced by a few weeks of dry winter weather, so plans were put in place.

Trip Route

Our first stop was Pinnarendi Station Stay, which is just south of the Atherton Tablelands on the Kennedy Highway, north of Forty Mile Scrub. It is a working cattle station run by Ronnie and Nadine Atkinson and we have been visiting since it was first set-up in 2016. We have previously surveyed the property with the North Queensland Natural History Group helping compile the stations flora and fauna lists. There are three kilometres of walking tracks taking in three dams always with a selection of waterbirds plus plenty of birdlife in the eucalyptus woodlands including a few friendly Grey Butcherbird.

Garden Dam

Grey Butcherbird

The flowering Grevillea pteridifolia (Fern-leaved Grevillea) was attracting many honeyeaters including the dominant Noisy Miner. We were pleased to see a creche of about 50 young Chestnut-breasted Mannikin being supervised by a few adults at one of the dams.

The camp ground provides powered and un-powered sites with one of the best features being the excellent Cafe – The Brick Oven. We stayed there for our first two nights enjoying the walks and also the yummy pizza!

Then it was off to Flat Creek Station, also a cattle station, which is SW of Georgetown and close to the Gilbert River. It is owned by Peter and Adam, who were away, and their caretaker Rick showed us around. The camp has a donkey boiler for showers and toilets and is a popular fossicking site. There were a number of fossickers camped there, however, the birdwatching is great as well. We found a pleasant spot beside a dry creek in the woodland and set-up camp for three nights. We were quickly surrounded by Apostlebirds and Squatter Pigeons, which certainly made us feel we were away on a birding trip!

Flat Creek Station Camp

Squatter Pigeon

Squatter Pigeon

A late afternoon bird walk had us trying to keep up with the species as they flitted around in the shrubs Restless Flycatcher, Weebill, Little Friarbird, Black-faced Woodswallow and White-winged Triller. The next morning a walk in the other direction was as equally productive including White-throated Gerygone, Black-faced Cuckooshrike and Grey-crowned Babbler.

Grey-crowned Babbler

White-throated Gerygone

We spent quite a bit of time just driving along the tracks and stopping to bird and checking out the dams. There are three dams plus a waterhole next to the camp site, so we had a great variety of birdlife to enjoy including Green and Cotton Pygmy-Goose, Black-necked Stork, White-necked Heron and Yellow-billed Spoonbill.

White-necked Heron

Green and Cotton Pygmy-goose

At night Keith heard Southern Boobook and Spotted Nightjar.

After we left, we had a quick visit to Cumberland Dam which was, as usual, full of campers as well as plenty of birds. Then back to Pinnarendi for a night where we enjoyed their excellent Thursday night barramundi special in the company of some entertaining caravaners. Another walk in the morning before treating ourselves to coffee, scones, cream and jam and then heading back to the Atherton Tablelands. 

Wondecla State Forest, near Herberton, has always been a favourite place of ours which we have visited many times over the years. Reading the reports of the monthly Birdlife NQ field trips there made us want to join in, but we needed to be staying close-by for the 7am start. Our last day away was the morning of the Wondecla field trip, so a perfect opportunity to attend. We checked out the possible camp sites nearby and were delighted to find a Hipcamp site further along Springvale Road just beyond the field trip meeting place. There are five sites and they are large and well spaced alongside Flaggy Creek. Here we were welcomed by the owner Tim who pointed out the properties walking tracks. As nightfall came the temperature started dropping, by now we were were getting used to the cold nights, as the last two had been 2°c, however, that night it went down to zero! Lucky we were snug in our Tvan camper-trailer, but having to get up early to join the field trip was hard work. We had coffee and porridge and were ready to go, but then had to remember the best way to defrost the windscreen - not something we had ever done in the Tropics before! We met with a small group of intrepid birders in beanies and scarves and soon got sore necks peering into the high eucalypt canopy where any birds that were about were catching the sun.

Wondecla Birding Group

Eventually, it warmed up and we enjoyed seeing the special birds that make this habitat home. One of the most interesting birds in the area is a population known locally as the Herberton Honeyeater, which is more typical of Yellow-tinted Honeyeater and maybe also confused with a Fuscous Honeyeater. Until it’s true status is resolved they are usually referred to as Fuscous Honeyeater. (read more on this subject in “ Birds of the Wet Tropics of Queensland & Great Barrier Reef & Where to Find Them” by Lloyd Nielsen). Bridled Honeyeater were everywhere making us wonder if any were left in the rainforest! Scaly-breasted and Rainbow Lorikeet added to the colour in contrast to the Black-faced Cuckooshrike.

Fuscous Honeyeater (Herberton Honeyeater)

After a long morning tea and chat it was time to go back to our camp. Here we found the one bird that had eluded us all morning, the Eastern Shrike-tit, which had been heard but not seen. Two obligingly flew around the camp as we packed up delaying our departure, a fitting end before we returned to Julatten after a very pleasant and cool week away.

Eastern Shrike-tit

CONTACT DETAILS:-

PINNARENDI STATION STAY

www.thebrickoven.com.au

Bookings advised for camping and for meals.

Flora and fauna lists under the Walking Track heading on their website.

 

 Pinnarendi Bird Species List

 

Emu	Pied Stilt	Yellow-throated Miner
Brown Quail	Black-fronted Dotterel	Red-browed Pardalote
Magpie Goose	Masked Lapwing	Striated Pardalote
Plumed Whistling-Duck	Barking Owl	White-throated Gerygone
Wandering Whistling-Duck	Southern Boobook	Western Gerygone
Black Swan	Black-shouldered Kite	Weebill
Green Pygmy-goose	Square-tailed Kite	Grey-crowned Babbler
Australian Wood Duck	Pacific Baza	Varied Sittella
Hardhead	Wedge-tailed Eagle	Australasian Figbird
Pacific Black Duck	Swamp Harrier	Olive-backed Oriole
Grey Teal	Brown Goshawk	Rufous Whistler
Australasian Grebe	Collared Sparrowhawk	Grey Shrike-thrush
Hoary-headed Grebe	Whistling Kite	Ground Cuckoo-shrike
Squatter Pigeon	Black Kite	Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike
Common Bronzewing	Rainbow Bee-eater	White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike
Crested Pigeon	Oriental Dollarbird	Common Cicadabird
Diamond Dove	Sacred Kingfisher	White-winged Triller
Peaceful Dove	Laughing Kookaburra	Pied Currawong
Bar-shouldered Dove	Blue-winged Kookaburra	Australian Magpie
Tawny Frogmouth	Nankeen Kestrel	Pied Butcherbird
Australian Owlet-nightjar	Australian Hobby	Grey Butcherbird
Pheasant Coucal	Brown Falcon	White-br. Woodswallow
Channel-billed Cuckoo	Red-tailed Black-Cockatoo	Willie Wagtail
Horsfield's Bronze-Cuckoo	Galah	Rufous Fantail
Fan-tailed Cuckoo	Sulphur-crested Cockatoo	Grey Fantail
Brolga	Pale-headed Rosella	Leaden Flycatcher
Australian Bustard	Rainbow Lorikeet	Paperbark Flycatcher
Black-necked Stork	Scaly-breasted Lorikeet	Magpie-lark
Royal Spoonbill	Red-winged Parrot	Torresian Crow
Australian White Ibis	Great Bowerbird	Australian Raven
Straw-necked Ibis	Brown Treecreeper	Lemon-bellied Flycatcher
Nankeen Night-Heron	Red-backed Fairy-wren	Jacky Winter
Cattle Egret	Banded Honeyeater	Golden-headed Cisticola
White-necked Heron	Brown Honeyeater	Rufous Songlark
Great Egret	Blue-faced Honeyeater	Tawny Grassbird
Plumed Egret	White-throated Honeyeater	Tree Martin
White-faced Heron	Little Friarbird	Silvereye
Little Egret	Noisy Friarbird	Common Myna
Australian Pelican	Scarlet Honeyeater	Mistletoebird
Little Pied Cormorant	Rufous-throated Honeyeater	Chestnut-breasted Mannikin
Little Black Cormorant	Lewin's Honeyeater	Red-browed Finch
Australasian Darter	Yellow-faced Honeyeater	Double-barred Finch
Bush Stone-curlew	Noisy Miner	August 2024

                                                                                                        127 Species

FLAT CREEK STATION

email – flatck@bigpond.com

Mention you are birdwatchers. $10pp per night – cash.

4WD necessary for exploring around the property and suggest a map tracking program such as ExploreOz Traveller to see where you are! Also, no internet so good idea to down load Bird Data maps.

FLAGGY CREEK CARAVAN CAMP

hipcamp.com/en-AU

0438 828 991