Continued on to Hughenden where we stopped at the Robert Gray Memorial Park for lunch. Had a Grey Butcherbird for company trying to share our lunch.
Then fuelled up ($2.19) and booked into the Alan Terry Caravan Park where we did the quick setup, which we usually do for one night stays.
Plenty of Yellow-throated Miner around the camp, which was probably the reason there were not many other birds as they were chasing everyone they saw.
Morning Coffee was at Corfield then Winton for lunch at Hollow Log Park. Called into Winton Wanderers Caravan Park to book a site in a few days time after we had been at Bladensburg National Park. Headed for the park and Bough Shed Campground where we found no other campers. Chose a good site and set up before a coffee and a walk in 31ºC temperatures. Found a Black Honeyeater with food heading to a nest.
Later in the afternoon we went down to the river which had quite a bit of water in it but not much birdlife. Back for dinner and a relaxing evening.
Did a bird survey around the campground and found more Rufous Songlark who were fast becoming the most common birds of the trip.
After breakfast we headed off to the Homestead to use the facilities and check out the park information. A few Spinifex Pigeon were foraging around the buildings,
| Spinifex Pigeon |
Took the Scammy Lookout track stopping along the way to check out some Banded Lapwing who were in the same area we had seen them on our last visit, also some Red Kangaroo.
Headed up the rocky jump up track onto the ridge and across a narrow rocky creek crossing, avoiding the water. Arrived at the lookout in time for morning coffee. This is the only place for Telstra reception so we made the most of it. Phoned up Safety Dave to get a couple of Tyre Pressure Monitoring Sensors sent to Alice Springs as we had lost one and needed a spare.
Next was Scammy Gorge, where we found White-browed Woodswallow mating.
Along the track were a few flowering Eucalypts, which had Black Honeyeater feeding in them. Had lunch at off track dam. Back to camp to rest before a late afternoon walk around, but did not find the Chestnut-breasted quail-thrush we were looking for.
Early breakfast and walk around the campsite, plenty of Budgerigar around their nest sites with some feeding juveniles.
Also Jacky Winter collecting nesting material
Then headed out to an area where Southern Emu-wren had been seen previously. site passed Skull Hole. Searched the Spinifex and found an adult Spinifexbird feeding a juvenile but no Southern Emu-wren.
Called into Skull Hole but it was getting hot so we went back to camp for morning coffee after a survey of the area, which did not record many birds. A lone Crested Pigeon was one of the few seen.
| Crested Pigeon |
After the reviving coffee we packed up the T-Van and travelled back to Winton along the Opalton Road. This is a longer route to get back to Winton but far better condition than the park road, which goes via the homestead. Checked into the Wanderers Caravan Park and set up camp as the temperature rose to 35ºC! A record August temperature for Winton. In the afternoon visited the Winton Treatment Works but found locked gates and keep out signs. We used to be allowed to check out all the ponds but this time could only see one pond from the road. A couple of Plum-headed Finch were sitting on the perimeter fence and five Diamond Dove were in a tree overhanging the fence.
Strong winds blew for most of the night which resulted in a lousy nights sleep. The Greengrocer (remember them?) came around in his van early morning shouting out for business, which he got from many people including us. Lindsay bought some bacon from him for our breakfast which went well with scrambled eggs. Then headed off to the shire council offices to ask about access to the Treatment Works only to be told that there is no more access due to the dreaded workplace health and safety! Had a quick look at the poo ponds through the fence. (Update from John Lowry: He and Len Ezzy sent a letter to the Winton Shire Council highlighting the importance of birdwatching to Winton and offered suggestions on how to merge the aims of birdwatchers and the Winton SC. This was discussed at the councils November meeting with an outcome of an extra fenced off pond being built with facilities [John and Len suggested 2 hides] for birdwatchers). Let hope this solution happens. Then headed off to fuel up and go to the bakery for a coffee, no bread apart from the usual Western Queensland white stuff. Checked out the Spar store and found their last Wholemeal loaf, better than white. Left town on the Boulia Road where we started to see Australian Pratincole along with about 12 Ground Cuckoo-shrike that flew off from the side of the road. Stopped at the Diamantina River crossing and a rest area where we had afternoon coffee. The scenery was very green due to recent rains.
Stopped off at Cawnpore Lookout and found a Red-backed Kingfisher perch on one of the few dead tree stumps.
Continued along the road and took a side track, where we found a good place to camp for the night. In the evening we heard an Australian Owlet-nightjar and a Spotted Nightjar.
Better nights sleep with a few light rain showers in the early morning. Packed up quickly in case anymore showers came along, which they did not. Went for a walk around the surrounding country, including a couple of mesa’s. Found 5 Spinifex Pigeon displaying then Lindsay found two Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush - managed a few photos. As we were heading back to camp a Grey Falcon flew overhead - fantastic. The scenery around this area is quite stunning.
Had a banana for breakfast and got back onto the road to stop at Hamilton Hotel ruins rest area, where it was still very windy making boiling a kettle very difficult. Here we had a Banded Lapwing with 3 juveniles in tow for company plus a Great Cormorant flew over.
The fence posts along the road made great perches for Brown Falcon, then in the open country we started to see groups of Flock Bronzewing. Stopped to observe them and try to take photos but they would not co-operate and kept a distance, even turning their backs on us as this not so good photo illustrates.
Did managed one of a nearby Horsfield's Bushlark. Continued on to the Boulia Racecourse Reserve alongside the Burke River, where we found a suitable site and set up camp. Telstra coverage here, which allowed internet access to catch up on Birdata surveys.
A late afternoon walk turned up a Common Bronzewing, which was new for the trip. Meanwhile back at camp a pair of Black-faced Woodswallow were displaying to each other, usually a precursor to copulation but this time they lost interest.
Around 7.30 a pair of Australian Owlet Nightjar fired up from adjacent trees followed by two Eastern Barn Owl screeching.
Had a sleep in until 7.00am due to temp. of 8ºC! Eventually got up for a warming coffee before a walk around the camp area. Added Black shouldered Kite to our trip list plus there were lots of White-browed and Masked Woodswallow feeding in a flowering Eucalypt next to our camp. Budgies were also nesting and a Rufous Song lark was seen carrying nesting material.
Tried the bird detection feature on the OM-1, which worked well nailing the White-necked Heron eye for focus.
Decided not to go into town and have a day off at the camp. Had another walk around the camp in the afternoon before dinner and found Little Friarbird in the flowering Eucalypts and another pair of Budgerigar enjoying themselves.
Also had a Brolga fly directly overhead which, resulted in this photo of a hammerhead Brolga!
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| Brolga |
After dinner a Barn Owl started to call along with an Australian Owlet-nightjar so we went down to the river and found two Eastern Barn Owl, one adult and one immature sitting in a tree, another was calling not far away. Back at camp an Owlet-nightjar showed up.
Another cold night and sleep in with a porridge breakfast and slow pack up. Had two Australian Pelican swimming in the river, an Intermediate Egret foraging on the river bank and a female Magpie-lark marching up and down letting everyone know she was there.
Had trouble lining up the Prado to the T-van due to the sun shinning into the reversing camera and the angle of the van to car because it was on the edge of a slope. This episode reminded me of a future job, which involves removing the useless plastic spare wheel cover and move the reversing camera to align with the hitch better. A Red-winged Parrot was suitably amused as it watched on.
Eventually took off for town to visit the general store for a few items, white bread again so gave that a miss. Fuelled up ($2.50lt) and left town for the Donahue Hwy, which became the Plenty Highway at the Northern Territory border. This stretch of the road is mainly bitumen with a few gravel stretches to Tobermorey Station, 250km from Boulia. Lindsay drove a section of this road and scored a gravel section. Plenty of treeless stretches of Ironstone country before we found a lunch stop at an old gravel pit off the road. Crossed the border into the Northern Territory and found Tobermorey Station (5km from the NT/QLD border).
Here we booked in for a night. Went for a walk along the surrounding flood levee wall in the afternoon and had 81 Spinifex Pigeon and 114 Crested Pigeon. A few Brolga flew into forage on the watered grass, apparently regular visitors.
Another 8ºC night so a slow start. Boiled the jug in the cookshed for a coffee before going around the levee wall again, hardly any birds so we headed for a dry creek area, where we found some birds including Paperbark Flycatcher new trip bird. Back for porridge and to pack up for a 9.30 departure to get back onto the Plenty Highway. Stopped along the road for morning coffee and found three Chiming Wedgebill and a White-browed Babbler. Further along the road is a roadside dam, this was very productive with at least 500 Zebra Finch plus at least 150 Budgies but best of all two Black Falcon swooping down trying to catch one of the birds. Another surprise here was a Gull-billed tern.
Lunch stop was a large quarry with little birdlife and afternoon coffee was had at Arthur River, which looked like a good camp area. We decided not to stop here so continued on to the Jervoise Roadside stop but this was full of cattle so we went to nearby Jervoise Station to camp ($20.00). Pretty basic but adequate. Road conditions today were OK. Cooked dinner over the fire pit, which was a hassle but we managed.
Up at first light to take a few photos of the sunrise before resurrecting the fire pit to boil some water for a coffee.
Packed up and had breakfast - not much of a dawn chorus this morning Pied Butcherbird and Australian Magpie with a few Corella. Back onto the Plenty Highway, the road was fairly good gravel to start with then bitumen followed by some more gravel. Looked for a place to pull over for morning coffee but nothing suitable until we had driven 144km and found a communication tower access road. Put some air in the tyres as we were back on the bitumen road, then a coffee. Lindsay drove from here to Gemtree Caravan Park and Roadhouse, where we booked in and were taken to our site in a very large area for campers.
Lunch then a snooze and a coffee with hot water from our neighbours caravan. Had an immature Crested Bellbird hopping around the camp.
In the evening we went out to the Gemtree dinner with our neighbours, roast around a fire pit in front of the reception area. Met another couple and had a pleasant evening chatting.
Had an early morning bird walk but all quiet and no new birds but a hole in the ground got our attention. It is the hole of a generally nocturnal ant Rhytidoponera sp. There are many species in this group occurring in low rainfall (Desert) country, as well as higher rainfall areas. This particular group are large 10mm+ and have nasty stings. Members of this group often have nests that look like Volcano's with lots of Spinifex or Casuarina pieces around the hole entrance and are common in the right habitat. Members of the nest mostly forage individually. (Thanks to a friend in Darwin for this information).
Packed up and moved down to the Café for coffee and a vanilla slice, yum. Had a chat with a cyclist who had travelled down the Tanami Track. He had started in Darwin cycling 200-300km a day - good luck to that. Also met a couple of guys on motor bikes who had travelled from Perth and were heading north. Eventually left at 9.50 am and back onto the Plenty Highway, mainly single lane bitumen until 8km from the Stuart Highway, where it turned into dual lane bitumen. Turned onto the Stuart Highway and stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn rest area. Then on to Alice Springs, where we went to fill the two gas bottles. We found that one was full and one empty, which meant something was wrong with the system again. So we then headed to our caravan site at the G'day Mate Tourist Park. Spent the afternoon trying to find a gas fitter to look at the gas system but they were all booked out for up to 8 weeks! After further investigation we came to the conclusion that the gas regulator was at fault. In the evening we went to the Gillen Club and met four other T-van and former T-van owners, who were staying at another caravan park. Had a good but noisy evening swapping stories. Headed home as the temperature started to fall.
Lindsay visited the optometrist to get some eye drops for a troublesome eye. I went to the Post Office to pick up two tyre pressure monitors we had ordered, whilst in Bladensburg National Park. Back at camp fitted the gas regulator and it worked! Hooray. Also fitted one of the tyre pressure monitors and adjusted it. Had one of the many Australian Ringneck around the campsite visit us in the vain hope it could scrounge something to eat off us, but no luck here.
The view from the lookout showed most of Alice Springs.
Back down at the bottom we walked a few tracks but saw few birds apart from Yellow-throated Myna who were chasing every other bird they saw. However we did find Western Bowerbird, two pairs, one with a nest and a juvenile standing beside it. Had a coffee at the café and watched the Yellow-throated Miner, Grey-crowned Babbler and Western Bowerbird fighting over a piece of toast on the ground. Kept us amused for a while.
Also saw Spotted Dove (introduced species) walking along the road and White-plumed Honeyeater trying to get a drink out of the water fountain.
Back for lunch then out to Simpson's Gap. Stopped at the woodland walk but not much happening here so continued on to the car park at the end of the road. We had just started walking to the gap when we spotted some movement in the spinifex and a pair of Dusky Grasswren popped up for some photos. Lucky break!
Continued on to the gap and had the place to ourselves for five minutes until people started to arrive.
Saw a Black-footed Rock Wallaby amongst the rocky slopes of the gorge.
Back to the Caravan Park via the Treatment works so we knew where to go tomorrow. Back at camp we were surprised to get a message from a friend of ours from Darwin days. He took our wedding photos 46 years ago and is now living in Hawker South Australia.
Much warmer morning today up to 3ºC! Got organised with a bowl of porridge before heading out to the Treatment Works to meet Tanya, our guide. Signed in at the gate and donned our high-vis vests before reading the signs telling visitors what they were not allowed to do, including no swimming in the ponds or drinking the water! We wandered around the ponds for two and quarter hours. Main species were Grey Teal, Hoary-headed Grebe and Little Crow. Other good species were White-winged and Splendid Fairy-Wren, Red-necked Avocet, a Wood Sandpiper and a couple of White-backed Woodswallow.
Had a good time then returned to camp. The afternoon was spent around the camp getting ready to leave tomorrow.
Not quite so cold only 8ºC! Packed up and headed into town for a coffee and muffin before food shopping. Back to car only to find I had left my sun glasses at the coffee shop. Luckily someone had handed in my $10.00 pair of sun glasses. Visited the Telegraph Station, where we had our packed lunch before heading to the Tanami Track. Bitumen all the way to the Tilmouth Well Roadhouse. Stopped at Kunoth Bore, which we've been to on a previous visit but this time the bore was derelict. However we checked it out and the first bird we saw was an immature Red-capped Robin sitting on a fence, then two Brown Falcon displaying overhead.
Left Tilmouth and continued up the Tanami Track for about 20km until we came to the turn off for Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary. The 138km stretch of road to Newhaven was pretty good gravel until we reached the Siddeley Range where it was very rocky and beyond lots of corrugations. We also had to contend with a few road blocks along the way until we came to the sanctuary boundary.
Arrived at the campground entrance and picked up a tour guide folder before selecting a camp site. Set up the T-Van with the full awning, which was a learning curve as we had not set one up for several years.
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| Newhaven Camp |
Had lunch and took it easy for the rest of the afternoon to recover from the awning set up! Pink Cockatoo came in to drink at the tank in the camping area late afternoon along with hundreds of Zebra Finch.
Cold overnight 8ºC. Went for an early morning walk along the Eremaea’s track at the foot of Lookout Hill overlooking the campground.
After breakfast we took the Dunes self guided tour, which took us to Lake Bennet via the Desert Oak Dune fields. Semi-saline Spinifex plains with ephemeral freshwater lakes. It was at the first lake that we flushed a quail which we decided was a Stubble Quail after much debate. Then onto the Dessert Oak dune fields where we stopped for morning coffee.
Walked around the area but not much happening, Black-faced Woodswallow and Singing Honeyeater were all we found.
Continued along the Lake Bennett Road, stopping along the way to bird, found Banded Whiteface and Inland Thornbill. Had our lunch at Lake Bennett under a shady tree as it was quite warm.
By now it was too hot to do anything else so headed back to camp for a shower and a rest. Had a walk around the campsite but the flies drove us back to the T-van. Caught up on paperwork and chatted to fellow campers. Listened to an Ann Jones podcast about moths in the evening. The temperature rose from 17ºC to 20ºC due to cloud cover - warm night for us.
After last nights temperature rise it dropped to 14ºC, which was a warm night for us - slept in until 6.40. Had a coffee and breakfast before going out on the Hillside Drive. Not many birds along the first section but we did see a couple of Grey-headed Honeyeater just before Honeyeater Hill. Teamed up with John and Lisa (American couple who had many mutual friends with us), to look for Emu-wren but we were unsuccessful. I climbed to the top of Honeyeater Hill and had great views of the surrounding countryside including the predator proof fence.
Continued onto Little Mesa, where we had lunch. During lunch we spotted a raptor over the mesa, turned out to be a Peregrine Falcon. Continued along the track which followed the predator free fence before returning to camp. By this time it was 31ºC and the windy had got up. Later in the afternoon I climbed Lookout Hill behind the campground to get Telstra coverage at the top of the hill to download some emails.
Warm overnight 10ºC! Up for porridge and a big day out with Lisa and John. Had a chat with an Australian Wildlife Conservancy ecologist before we headed off on the Mt. Gurner Track, a 112km round trip. Started to see Brown Falcon hunting and perched in trees in burnt areas along the track at the beginning, most of them were light phase birds.
We passed through Bloodwood Corimbia opaea and sand plains before the old derelict Mt. Gurner Homestead Bore where we saw a few patches of the invasive introduced Buffle Grass. Then entered a patch of Blue Mallee Eucalyptus gomophylla, sand plains and open saltbush flats. Took a short detour off the main track to Dingo Hill, where we climbed to the top for spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.
Back on the main track we turned off for Mt. Gurner passing through stands of Weeping Mulga Acacia paraneura.
Arrived at Mt. Gurner for a late lunch before exploring the area. Found a family of Splendid Fairy-wren but nothing else apart from a Central Military Dragon seeking refuge in a clump of spinifex.
Then back to camp with one stop, where we found a family of Purple-backed Fairy-wren and photographed Grevillea wickhamii.
Back to camp and another hill climb, this time Lookout Hill for internet access.
Back to cold morning 3ºC Collected the camera trap and found Desert Mouse and Hopping Mouse recorded during the early evening. After breakfast we set off on the Lakes Tour, which started off passing, through some soft and dense old growth Spinifex Triodia pungens before stands of Mulga Acacia aneura. Then the track passed through more spinifex and some Inland Tea-tree Melalueca glomerata before a series of dry lakes scattered along the route. Stopped at Susie’s Lake to look for birds, the best seen were Purple-backed Fairy-wren and Hooded Robin. Further along was Bottleneck Lake and Tectnicornia Lake, where we stopped for a coffee. Then on passing Swan Lake, which is saltwater but again dry. The road passed through some Calcrete ridges, which is a Limestone formed by cementation comprising of soils, gravel and shells formed by calcium carbonate deposited by evaporation. Then the vegetation changed again to Saltbush and Blue Bush. We did stop when we heard a bird call and found a Grey Shrike-thrush. We arrived at the dry Lake Bennett and climbed a sand dune to survey the vast area the lake occupies.
On the sand dune we found a Weebill foraging in an Acacia shrub.
Also found this Melophorus Sp. ant. They only forage in the heat of the day and are very fast runners, this one stopped long enough to get a photo. These are a large diverse group found in many habitats of mostly inland arid Australia. (Thanks to our friend Tony in Darwin for this information).
We found a shady spot here for lunch before returning to camp with a stop along the way to record Western Gerygone. At the camp there was an Australian Hobby in a tree eating an item of prey, which looked like a Zebra Finch. Had a pleasant evening with new found friends Lisa and John who came over for a chicken curry. Plenty of stories told!
9ºC this morning. Made a quick dash up Lookout Hill to get some internet for the English Premier League football results - my team Arsenal won 3-0 away, great. Back down at camp Lindsay had cooked up a very nice breakfast as the temperature rose quickly to 16ºC. Then headed back to Susie’s Lake to explore it a bit more. We took a walk around the lake looking for Little Button-quail reported the day before but no luck for us. There were a few parties of Purple-backed Fairy-wren, Inland Thornbill, the usual Zebra Finch and Singing Honeyeater. Took some photos of an Australian Golden Orb-weaver spider but as the wind was blowing it was nearly impossible to get a non blurry image.
We had a very productive afternoon tidying up the T-van and Prado. We took down the full awning whilst the wind had dropped. We had the campground to ourselves apart from a House Mouse who got into our rubbish. We also put out a water bowl, which the Zebra Finch quickly found.
| Zebra Finch |
Over the past few days a Black-faced Cuckooshrike had been roosting in a tree beside our campsite and tonight was no exception as it was back again making some interesting calls. This photo was taken when the cuckoo-shrike was waking up in the morning - look familiar?















































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